Italian authorities have intercepted more than 1,000 tons of illegal textile waste as part of JCO Demeter XI, an international operation led by the World Customs Organization (WCO). Out of a total of 1,176 tons seized across 25 countries, more than 900 tons were confiscated in Italy, where the Guardia di Finanza uncovered shipments of fabric falsely labeled as second-hand clothing intended for export to Africa and Asia, including destinations such as Thailand, Pakistan, and Tunisia.
Most of the illegal shipments were discovered at major trade hubs, including the ports of Genoa, Livorno, and Venice, as well as in key textile production centers such as Prato and Milan. Authorities warned that these seizures highlight the rapid rise of an illicit market in goods masquerading as reusable clothing, driven in part by the fast fashion industry, which produces massive volumes of low-cost garments with short lifespans, overwhelming existing recycling systems.
Data from the European Environment Agency (EEA) shows that in 2022, EU citizens purchased an average of 19 kilograms of clothing per year, generating nearly 7 million tons of textile waste. Only a small fraction is recycled: prior to 2025, just 28% of used clothing and footwear were collected separately, and only 15% of total textile waste was recycled. New EU regulations, effective from January 2025, require separate collection of textile waste, likely increasing both collection volumes and exports to other countries.
For the first time in 11 years, the WCO focused on textile waste in its global customs crackdown, revealing that large quantities of allegedly second-hand clothing were in fact unauthorized textile garbage. The operation also exposed a regulatory gap: unclear national criteria make it difficult to distinguish used clothing from textile waste, particularly in developing countries where demand for second-hand garments is high. This confusion has led to significant environmental problems, as imported unusable textiles often end up in landfills or are burned in the open air.
The customs sweep also noted an increase in the illegal trade of vehicle components and steel waste. Overall, the global operation resulted in the seizure of 15,509 tons of waste, including hazardous materials such as 168 tons of ozone-depleting gases and over 30,000 dangerous chemicals, including pesticides, highlighting the wider environmental risks associated with illegal waste trafficking.
