A growing global backlash is emerging against the beauty industry as concerns mount over the rise of “cosmeticorexia”, a phenomenon in which children and teenagers develop compulsive and age-inappropriate skincare routines. According to reporting by the Financial Times, campaigners, medical professionals and regulators are increasingly alarmed at how cosmetics companies and retailers are capturing the attention—and spending power—of under-18 consumers.
The controversy has been fuelled by the rapid spread of beauty content on social media platforms, where influencers promote elaborate skincare routines to ever-younger audiences. In one widely viewed example, an Italian beauty influencer encouraged her 1.4 million TikTok followers—specifically girls under 14—to explore products at Sephora, recommending a range of serums, moisturisers and lip treatments. The message quickly resonated, inspiring other young influencers to replicate and amplify the content, often from bedrooms decorated with toys and symbols of childhood.
Regulators are beginning to take notice. Italy’s competition watchdog has launched an investigation into Sephora and LVMH-owned brands, raising concerns about what it described as “insidious” marketing practices aimed at children as young as 10. The use of young micro-influencers to promote products, including anti-ageing creams, has intensified scrutiny across Europe, where policymakers are questioning whether existing consumer protections are sufficient for a digital-first generation.
Medical professionals say the consequences are already visible. Psychologists and dermatologists report increasing numbers of young patients showing signs of distress linked to perceived imperfections in their appearance. The term “cosmeticorexia” has been coined to describe excessive or compulsive use of cosmetic products, often involving ingredients that may be harmful to young skin. Experts warn that the condition can interfere with the development of a healthy self-image, as children begin to equate personal worth with physical perfection.
Dermatologists have also observed a rise in physical side effects. Cases of contact dermatitis among children aged 8 to 16 have increased, with some patients using multiple products containing strong active ingredients such as retinols or corticosteroids. These substances, typically intended for adult use, can damage sensitive skin when misused. Doctors say they are often surprised not only by the intensity of these routines but also by the financial cost, suggesting parental awareness or involvement in the trend.
At the centre of the debate is Sephora, the global beauty retailer owned by LVMH. Once considered an unconventional addition to the luxury conglomerate’s portfolio, Sephora has evolved into a dominant force in the global cosmetics market, with billions in annual sales. Its success has been driven in part by its ability to identify emerging brands and amplify them through viral marketing, particularly on platforms popular with younger audiences.
Critics argue that this strategy, while commercially effective, has blurred the line between organic demand and deliberate targeting. Packaging and in-store displays often feature pastel colours, playful designs and novelty shapes that appear to appeal directly to children. Campaigners say this creates confusion among parents, many of whom may underestimate the potency of certain products or assume they are harmless due to their child-friendly appearance.
The issue has sparked calls for tighter regulation. In the United Kingdom, advocacy groups are pushing for restrictions on the sale of skincare products containing strong active ingredients to minors. Similar efforts are under way in Italy, where consumer associations have urged authorities to curb social media marketing practices that encourage children to focus on beauty standards at an early age.
Industry representatives, however, reject accusations of deliberate targeting. Trade bodies argue that the surge in demand is being driven organically by social media trends rather than coordinated marketing campaigns. They maintain that brands have limited control over user-generated content, which often spreads rapidly without direct involvement from companies themselves.
Yet for many observers, this defence is unconvincing. The integration of social media, retail environments and product design has created what some campaigners describe as a “toxic environment” for children. Retail innovations such as in-store “beauty playgrounds,” where customers can test products and create content, have further blurred the boundaries between marketing and entertainment, encouraging young consumers to engage more deeply with beauty culture.
Some brands have begun to respond to the growing criticism. Companies that previously faced scrutiny for promoting products unsuitable for young skin have attempted to reposition themselves, launching campaigns emphasising responsible use and removing earlier marketing materials. However, new entrants to the market continue to target younger demographics, introducing products specifically designed for children, including face masks marketed to users as young as four.
For psychologists studying cosmeticorexia, these developments raise deeper concerns about the long-term impact on children’s mental health and identity formation. The normalisation of complex skincare routines at such a young age, they argue, may reinforce unrealistic beauty standards and create dependency on products as a means of self-worth.
Despite the mounting backlash, the commercial incentives remain strong. The global beauty industry continues to expand, and younger consumers represent a lucrative and influential segment. As digital platforms amplify trends at unprecedented speed, the challenge for regulators and society will be to balance innovation and growth with the protection of vulnerable audiences.
For now, the debate shows no sign of fading. What began as a niche concern among medical professionals has evolved into a broader cultural and regulatory issue, raising fundamental questions about how childhood, consumerism and identity intersect in the age of social media.
