For decades, monosodium glutamate (MSG) has been vilified, accused of causing everything from headaches to palpitations, and blamed for the infamous “Chinese Restaurant Syndrome” (CRS). However, recent reports, including an insightful piece by The Times, UK, reveal that the negative perception of MSG may have been little more than a myth rooted in cultural biases and misunderstandings.
MSG, often referred to as the “king of flavour” by modern food enthusiasts, has gained newfound appreciation, with social media influencers celebrating its ability to enhance the taste of food. “MSG is just another seasoning,” says Eat With GG, a food influencer with a massive following. Yet, for much of the 20th century, MSG was vilified, particularly in the West.
Invented in 1908 by Japanese biochemist Kikunae Ikeda, MSG was designed to replicate the rich, savoury flavour of umami found in dashi, a traditional Japanese seaweed broth. Ikeda’s discovery quickly gained popularity, with his company Ajinomoto producing MSG in bulk. By the 1960s, it was a staple in Chinese kitchens, offering an affordable way to enhance flavour during times of food scarcity. However, its widespread use in processed foods in the West gave it a less savoury reputation.
The turning point for MSG’s fall from grace came in 1968 when The New England Journal of Medicine published a letter from Robert Ho Man Kwok, a Cantonese-American doctor, who speculated that MSG might be responsible for the symptoms he experienced after eating at Chinese restaurants. This idea, dubbed “Chinese Restaurant Syndrome,” spread like wildfire, amplified by growing Western fears of chemicals and additives during that era.
According to The Times, cultural bias also played a significant role in perpetuating the myth. Misunderstandings about Chinese cuisine—dating back to the 19th century when writers like Mark Twain expressed unfounded fears about Chinese food—created an environment where MSG was easily scapegoated. Dr. Ian Mosby, a food historian, notes that many early Western Chinese restaurants served greasy, salty, and overly large portions, leading to discomfort that was often unfairly attributed to MSG.
Scientific reviews have since debunked the widespread fears. Two major studies, one by the United Nations in 1987 and another by the Federation of American Societies for Experimental Biology in 1995, declared MSG safe for consumption. While rare cases of hypersensitivity to MSG exist, they are far from the norm.
Ironically, while the West is rediscovering and embracing MSG, it has fallen out of favour in China, where the middle class is leaning toward organic and unprocessed foods. The once-reviled seasoning now finds itself celebrated in the UK, with brands like Honest Umami bringing MSG to mainstream retailers like Ocado.
As MSG’s reputation is rehabilitated, it serves as a reminder of how myths, cultural misunderstandings, and a lack of scientific clarity can shape public perception. Far from being a dangerous additive, MSG may just be the misunderstood hero of the culinary world.
